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I’m usually a “beach bum” kind of traveler. Give me sun-soaked sand, a hammock, and a fruity drink with a straw—and I’m happy. But this time, I swapped flip-flops for trekking shoes and headed to the hills. Destination? McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala—famously called Little Lhasa thanks to its Tibetan charm, fluttering prayer flags, Bhagsu Nag Waterfall, Triund Trek, and monks who (spoiler alert) might just have fancier smartphones than you.
This was a family trip—my wife, my kid, and me—and I was determined to make it a memorable one (read: not get yelled at for bad planning).
The Journey: Bollywood, Blankets & Bhai
We hopped on the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Volvo from Delhi—arguably the safest, comfiest way to reach McLeod Ganj. The bus was filled with young backpackers radiating “Mountains Calling” vibes.
Within 30 minutes, my son was snuggled under his blanket, fast asleep. My wife, as usual, had done all the packing (because if it were left to me, we’d just have three T-shirts and zero toothbrushes).
The bus staff put on a Bhai's (Salman Khan) Bollywood blockbuster. We watched it half-heartedly until our dinner halt at Haveli, Karnal—paranthas, chai, and a chance to stretch our legs. Then it was lights out… or at least, attempts to sleep in a moving bus while trying to ignore every honk.
After a long, bumpy night, we rolled into McLeod Ganj at 5 a.m. sharp. It was drizzling, jackets were out, and so were the taxi-walas shouting, “Sir, taxi? Kahan jaoge sir?”
First Impressions: Empty Streets & Stray Dog Escorts
Our hotel was just a 15-minute walk according to Google Maps. With crisp mountain air and zero Delhi pollution, we decided to skip the taxi and walk. Stray dogs joined us like unofficial tour guides while clouds danced over the mountains. Honestly, that sunrise was worth every hour of bus discomfort.
We got an early check-in, collapsed on the bed “just for a bit,” and of course woke up at 11:30 a.m. Because hill stations are designed for naps.
Mall Road Madness & First Bite of Heaven
We ventured onto Mall Road, only to be greeted with honking taxis, crowds of tourists, and tempos delivering goods. For a moment, I thought we had taken a wrong turn back to Delhi’s Chandni Chowk.
But then came redemption—Tibet Kitchen. Known for its fried momos and fried rice, this cozy spot gave us exactly what we needed: hot food + drizzle outside = perfect mountain vibe. My wife got distracted by Tibetan jewelry shops, my son by sweet corn vendors, and me? Still dreaming about momos.
We reached back to our hotel in the evening, sat in the balcony with majestic view of the valley and turned on soothing classical music which complimented the atmosphere. My kid was kind enough to sleep while we enjoyed the view. During the night, we went on a stroll and had dinner at local restaurant and got back to our hotel and slept.
Dalai Lama Temple: Serenity (With Wi-Fi)
A short walk brought us to the Dalai Lama Temple. The atmosphere was spiritual, with monks meditating, chanting, and yes, scrolling on smartphones. (Turns out even enlightenment comes with 4G.)
We clicked pictures, met a kind old monk who posed with us, and soaked in the peaceful energy. It was a refreshing break from the chaos of Mall Road.
BhagsuNag Waterfall: Traffic, Trekkers & a German Bakery
Next morning was for BhagsuNag waterfall, just 3 km away. Rookie mistake: we took a taxi instead of walking. Thanks to weekend traffic + summer vacation crowds, that 45-minute walk became a 1.5-hour traffic jam inside a car.
At the temple near the waterfall, devotees thronged. But my eyes were fixed uphill. The climb had endless stairs, but my kid was all energy (unlike me, who was bargaining with the universe for shortcuts). Finally, the waterfall appeared—majestic, thundering, and surrounded by selfie enthusiasts climbing slippery rocks despite warning signs. Humans, I tell you.
We quickly descended and found solace at the German Bakery, devouring cookies and shakes. Easily the highlight of the day.
We also wanted to experience the famous Triund Trek and try even more famous cold coffee of Shiva cafe that is on the way to the trek, however, we could not because of our kid. We were not sure if it would be safe to trek, so we went by the famous quote "When in doubt, ABORT!!"
Evenings in McLeod Ganj: Pizza, Views & Quiet Moments
By evening, we ditched taxis and walked back, overtaking cars stuck in jams while blasting loud music (note to humanity: let nature be nature). Back at the hotel, we collapsed, then later treated ourselves to dinner at Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen—pizza, pasta salad, and cake for the kid. Pure happiness.
The balcony view of snow-capped peaks, twinkling valley lights, and soothing music made for the perfect mountain evening. Those little family moments? Priceless.
Travel Tips for McLeod Ganj
- Best time to visit: March–June and September–November. Avoid peak summer holidays if you dislike crowds (trust me on this one).
- Must-try food: Tibet Kitchen’s momos, German Bakery cookies, Jimmy’s pizza.
- Things to do: Dalai Lama Temple, BhagsuNag Waterfall, Mall Road shopping, café hopping.
- Getting there: Overnight Volvo from Delhi is the most convenient.
Final Thoughts
McLeod Ganj is chaotic yet charming, crowded yet calming, and absolutely worth the visit. Between monks on iPads, magical momos, and Himalayan views, it gave us memories that outshone the traffic woes.
Would I return? Definitely—but maybe not in the middle of school vacations!
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