Varanasi Travel Guide: Ghats, Temples & Trying Not to Get Lost in the Lanes

Varanasi/Banaras/Kashi Ganga Aarti

If India had a soul, it would probably live in Varanasi. Also called Banaras or Kashi, this city is where spirituality meets chaos, where street food competes with salvation, and where the Ganga flows not just as a river but as living history. This is Magic of Kashi.

Here’s how our 2-day Varanasi itinerary unfolded — from Assi Ghat Aarti to Baba Kaal Bhairav, from Kashi Vishwanath Temple to Ganga Cruise.

Delhi Airport – The Hunger Games Edition

We kicked off the trip at Delhi airport lounge, which felt less like breakfast and more like a wrestling match to get in. My wife secured some Poha, my son raided the muffin counter, and I ended up with Dosa like a true survivor.

A quick 1.5-hour flight from Delhi to Varanasi later, we landed at Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport.


The Uber Guru of Varanasi

Our Uber driver turned into a walking encyclopedia of things to do in Varanasi. Between honking at cows and dodging e-rickshaws, he laid out the perfect plan:

Assi Ghat Aarti, shaam ko 5:30 baje.

Baba Kaal Bhairav Mandir, 8 baje Aarti.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, 9 baje — kam bheed, zyada sukoon.

I swear, this man deserves his own podcast: “Uber Baba’s Guide to Banaras.


Assi Ghat – Evening Ganga Aarti

After a much-needed nap at the hotel, panic struck — we were almost late for the Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat. Through monsoon-soaked lanes and cow traffic jams, we somehow reached on time.

Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat Banaras

The scene was surreal. Priests moved in perfect rhythm, lamps glowed, chants echoed. Some sat on boats for the view, but we found the perfect seats on stairs. Watching the world-famous Ganga Aarti is not just an event — it’s a spiritual concert.


Baba Kaal Bhairav Temple – The Fierce Guardian

Next, an e-rickshaw whisked us to Baba Kaal Bhairav Temple, one of the most important shrines of Varanasi. Known as the “Kotwal of Kashi” (the city’s protector), no pilgrimage here is considered complete without his blessings. The evening Aarti was powerful — bells ringing, chants rising, and my son whispering in between, “Papa, can we get a burger after this?


Kashi Vishwanath Temple – The Crown Jewel of Banaras

By 9 PM, we navigated the famous narrow lanes of Varanasi, dodging scooters, cows, and shoppers. At Gate No. 4, we deposited our belongings in exchange for flowers and entered the holy Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple Varanasi

Darshan was smooth, thanks to our Uber Guru’s timing tip. Standing before Lord Shiva in this ancient temple was overwhelming — a moment where faith felt tangible.

Dinner followed at the new Kashi Vishwanath corridor food court, where dosa, burgers, and ice cream fueled us back to life.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple Varanasi

On our way out, we accidentally walked past Manikarnika Ghat, the eternal cremation ground and also known as The Burning Ghat where it’s believed souls attain salvation a.k.a moksha. Suddenly, I understood the heaviness I felt — the energy here is profound and indescribable.


Day 2: Food Trail in Banaras

Next morning, we were in full exploration mode (read: Varanasi food trail). Rain played spoil sport, but our willpower was stronger.

  • Malai Toast & White Butter Toast at Laxmi Chai Wala
  • Sweet Lassi at Blue Lassi
  • Banarasi Kachori Sabzi (divine!)
  • Tamatar Chaat at Deena Chat Bhandar (too spicy for me, but a local favorite)
Deena Chat Bhandar Banaras

Tamatar Chaat from Deena Chaat Bhandar

Pro tip: Even small, non-famous shops in Banaras serve food that’s delicious and authentic.

My wife then declared it was Banarasi saree shopping time (husbands, you know what this means). By noon, humidity defeated us, so we retreated for a power nap back in our hotel.


Ganga Cruise – Alaknanda Experience

Evening brought a new adventure — a Ganga river cruise from Sant Ravidas Ghat. The boat, Alaknanda, covered all 84 ghats of Varanasi, narrating their significance.

Alakhnanda Cruise Varanasi

I booked the open deck (gamble that paid off) because the cool river breeze and drizzle made it magical. Even those who booked the AC deck eventually climbed up.

The cruise paused at Dashashwamedh Ghat, letting us witness the famous Ganga Aarti from the river — a divine spectacle from a new perspective.

Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Mandir – Faith & History

From the ghat, we walked to Sankat Mochan Hanuman Mandir, founded by the saint Tulsidas. Here, Lord Hanuman gazes directly at Lord Ram — a unique setup in India.

During Aarti, devotees formed two neat queues, leaving a clear line of sight between Lord Hanuman and Lord Ram. The energy was so uplifting, even my son stood quietly (a miracle in itself). No pics as camera is not allowed at all.


Nightcap with Lassi

On our way back, we tried our luck at Chachi Kachori, but it was sold out. Luckily, our e-rickshaw driver suggested Pahalwan Lassi — thick, creamy, and almost a meal in itself. That, plus some snacks, became our dinner.

Pahalwan Lassi Banaras


Day 3: Morning Temple Hopping

Our final morning was devoted to nearby temples:

Durga Mata Temple Banaras

Durga Mata Mandir – one of the 51 Shakti Peethas, dedicated to Goddess Durga.

Tulsi Manas Mandir – built where saint Tulsidas composed the Ramcharitmanas. Its walls are engraved with verses from the epic.

Both offered a calm, divine closure to our spiritual circuit.


Return Journey: Vande Bharat Express 🚄

We packed up and headed to Varanasi Junction for the Vande Bharat Express to Delhi.

Vande Bharat from Varanasi to New Delhi

The train left at 3 PM sharp, serving snacks, tea, and dinner. My son, on his first train ride in 10 years, was over the moon. Me? Slightly bored (I’m a flight person), but I have to admit — Vande Bharat is clean, fast, and on time. By night, we were home in Delhi, tired yet fulfilled.


Final Thoughts

Varanasi isn’t just a city — it’s an experience. In two days, we witnessed Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat, sought blessings at Kashi Vishwanath, Baba Kaal Bhairav, and Sankat Mochan Mandir, explored Banaras street food, shopped sarees, cruised past 84 ghats, and even rode India’s pride, the Vande Bharat Express.

Varanasi Ghats by River Ganga

Varanasi stays with you. In the chants, the food, the ghats, the energies — it’s a story that keeps unfolding.

And as for me, I still owe myself a plate of Chachi Kachoris. 😉

Best Time to Visit Varanasi: Oct–March (pleasant weather, less humidity).

Must-Try Food: Kachori Sabzi, Malai Toast, Tamatar Chaat, Blue Lassi, Pahalwan Lassi.

Spiritual Highlights: Kashi Vishwanath (Jyotirlinga), Assi Ghat Aarti, Sankat Mochan Mandir, Baba Kaal Bhairav, Manikarnika Ghat.

Are you ready for spiritual journey or food journey? Whatever fills your soul. 

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