Mukteshwar Travel Guide: How Four Boys Got Lost, Found God, and Chose a Hotel at 2 AM

[Mukteshwar]

They say, "some destinations leave you spellbound," and Mukteshwar is definitely one of them. Situated high in the Kumaon Hills of Uttarakhand, it’s a town so beautiful, my friends and I had to witness it for ourselves. This was an "all boys trip," which, as any man knows, means two things: minimal planning and maximum chaos. We left Delhi late on a Friday night, after picking up one of our friends from his Gurgaon office, ready for an epic road trip.

The Great Mukteshwar Road Trip: A Man-ifesto of Misguided Decisions

Since we hired a cab, our planning was reduced to one simple, glorious instruction: "Just get us to Mukteshwar." We were so relaxed we practically melted into the seats, entrusting our lives and our directions to a man we'd just met. We were four friends meeting after a long time, so we just chatted away, reminiscing and catching up on all the "boys stuff."

We assumed that with no traffic, we'd reach our destination earlier than anticipated. But our trust in the driver was a fool's errand. Two hours later, we realized we were heading in the wrong direction.

Friend 1: "Wait a minute, where are we?" 

Me: "I don't know, man. Google Maps says we're supposed to be over there." Points vaguely in the opposite direction. 

Friend 2: "The driver's been taking us on a scenic tour of nowhere for two hours! I told you we should have used the map!" 

Me: "Hey, we're all in this together! We didn't want to hurt his feelings, did we?"

We politely took control of the navigation and started to guide him, with a collective sigh of relief.

The Fog on the way

Lost in the Fog & Found by Omelettes

At 4 AM, we stopped for a quick tea and snacks, trying to make up for lost time. Soon, we had to stop again at 6 AM due to excessive fog. The kind of fog that swallows your car whole. We were grumpy, tired, and a little worried. But then, we stumbled upon a small roadside shack that served the most incredible omelettes I have ever tasted.

Friend 3: "Guys, I've had five of them. I think I'm addicted." 

Me: "This is our reward! This is why we got lost! It was all part of a greater plan to lead us to these amazing omelettes!"

After an hour, the fog cleared enough for us to see the road, and we were back on our journey, fueled by eggs and a newfound, misplaced confidence. We promised ourselves no more stops. We lied.

An hour away from Mukteshwar, we had to stop again. The views were simply too mesmerizing. The route was filled with lush greenery and beautiful Gum Trees, which I'd never seen before. We spent a good half-hour taking photos, pretending to be seasoned travel photographers. We finally reached Mukteshwar at noon, tired but completely refreshed by the crisp, mountain air.

The Gum Trees

Our 12-Year-Old Savior & a Very Expensive Maggi

Just as we stepped out of the car, a young boy, maybe 12 or 13, approached us. He looked so cheerful and offered to be our guide for a very nominal fee. We agreed, and he took us under his wing. He was our photographer, our historian, and our best friend for the next few hours.

He took us to Choli Ki Jaali, a famous extended rock with a hole in it. He explained that a fair takes place there every Maha Shivratri, and women who want to conceive are made to pass through the hole. We were completely astonished. Our young guide, it seemed, was a fountain of fascinating local knowledge.

After a long walk, our stomachs were grumbling. Our guide led us to a small café that served Maggi. We were so hungry we'd eat anything, but when we saw the price, we almost fainted. "Two Maggis for the price of a full meal," I joked. We had no choice but to pay up, and to this day, I believe that was the most expensive Maggi I have ever had.

He then took us to the Mukteshwar Dham Temple, a beautiful Lord Shiva temple with a forest of bells. He explained that if you make a wish and it comes true, you must return and tie a bell at the temple. My next visit is definitely due.

Choli Ki Jaali/Chauli Ki Jaali

Mukteshwar Dham

Bells Tied in Mukteshwar Dham

God, Fresh Veggies & The Dumbest Decision We Ever Made

Guess what? We were hungry again. Our guide suggested a restaurant with its own farm. We were skeptical, but it turned out to be the best decision of our day. The woman who ran the place literally walked out, plucked the vegetables we ordered from her garden, and cooked them for us. The taste of that fresh produce is something I will never forget.

By 4 PM, we were too tired to think straight. We had been awake for over 20 hours, and all we wanted was a bed. We had no hotel booking (because, "all boys trip"), but someone suggested we go to Nainital, which was 60 kilometers away. And that's when we made the single most illogical decision of the entire trip.

Fresh Farm Veggies

Me: "So... we don't have a hotel. Should we... find one here?" 

Friend 1: "Or... we could just drive another 60 kilometers to Nainital." 

Friend 2: "Yeah! That makes perfect sense. We're already tired. What's another two hours of driving?"

So, we, a group of four sleep-deprived men, got back in the car and left the hotel-filled town of Mukteshwar for the unknown, and completely illogical, journey to Nainital. The chaos continued.

Tired Us, Look at Our Faces